But even the least critical component is still worth some thought. And like so much of fly fishing, reels are subject to their share of myths and misconceptions.
Other than aesthetics, the main difference between high- and mid-grade reels is a beefed-up drag system. For fighting Atlantic salmon, steelhead or saltwater fish, you do need a quality reel, with a smooth and strong drag. As the guidebooks say, the reel is primarily a place to store your line.
Nor should you opt for a bottom-end reel—it will wobble, corrode, seize up and fall apart. Instead, most freshwater fly anglers are perfectly served by a mid-priced reel. Reels are rated for a specific fly-line size. Other considerations, such as weight, are less straightforward. Sometimes, a heavier reel balances better and is less tiring on your wrist. I like having the assembled rod and reel balance roughly where my middle finger touches the handle, though your preference may differ.
Other reels, like the Orvis Hydros, are produced in sizes that accommodate a range of three different line sizes. For us anglers, buying a reel that works with two or three different line sizes can be a real money-saver if you own multiple rods within that range. Are you looking for a way to capture that special moment on the river? Consider getting a personalized fly box from River Traditions.
If you stop the reel selection process here, however, you might not end up with the exact right fly reel for your needs. The next question to ponder is. I bought mine on Amazon, it was delivered in two days. Most fly lines come out of the box at a standard length of 90 feet, which in most cases is enough length to play and land fish. But, if you hook into a strong, fast-running fish, every inch of line will race off the reel leaving you spooled, as they say.
Backing goes on the reel first before the thicker fly line is attached, and ideally, you want to add as much as the reel will hold. You can read all about the different types of fly line backing in this Article — What is Fly Line Backing. Are they lightning-fast bonefish? Get a bigger reel. Are they dinky little brookies?
Get a smaller reel. For a more detailed explanation on how to clean and maintain a fly fishing reel watch a video I put together. The first two parameters I covered line weight and line capacity should narrow down your reel search significantly. Your next task is to find a reel that balances your rod. They are ideal for competition trout anglers, those on a budget and travelling anglers trying to reduce the weight of their kit.
For many years a fly reel would have a solid replacement spool, you would remove the whole spool and replace it with another.
Often the cost of the spool would be roughly half the cost of the reel. A modern take on spare spools has been developed courtesy of the competition match angler who would often be carrying as many a 20 different lines and spools. For the convenience of being able to carry lots of spools the cassette or cartridge reel was developed. The way that they work is a plastic spool will locate into the spool frame which will then pop into the frame in the same way as a conventional spool would.
This is a simple cog mechanism that alters the amount of pressure applied to the spindle. This drag is ideal for small rivers or still waters. This is the most popular and modern type of drag system. This works as a brake, it increases the tension put on the reel as a fish tries to pull line off but maintains a low pressure when winding in.
They work by either applying pressure to the inside of the spool Tibor or by having all of the braking done within a hub or housing Nautilus. Disc drag systems are made of varying materials which include Cork, Carbon fibre, Titanium, Ceramic, Teflon and Rulon as the most popular.
These reels are designed to take a lot of abuse and be used in the harshest of conditions with the strongest of fish, a must for the saltwater angler and salmon fisherman. This is a question that can make normally calm and reasonable fly anglers get quite animated! With a double-handed rod it is less important as you will cast both sides with either hand up the rod. There are no rules — the choice is yours. For more help and information on purchasing your new fly reel please contact Sportfish on or email danny.
The store will not work correctly in the case when cookies are disabled. Christmas All. Our Guide to Fly Fishing Reels The most basic requirement of any fly reel is simply to store your fly line and an adequate amount of backing. How are reels manufactured? Die cast — This mass production process uses molten alloy poured or injected into a mould. Die casting allows manufacturers to produce forms that would be impossible to create with a machining process.
The downsides to die casting are that it does not give such tight engineering tolerances and a reel dropped from height onto a hard surface may shatter. CNC machining — The majority of top end fly reels are made from computer numerical control machining of bar stock aerospace grade aluminium. Machined parts are then anodised to prevent corrosion making them resistant to saltwater. Reels manufactured in this way are lightweight, strong and will take a lot of punishment and wear.
The materials and manufacturing process make reels made this way more expensive but with care and regular maintenance they should last a lifetime. What species will you be fishing for? What size reel is correct?
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